Posture, pony tail, black work uniform. Proud of her breasts: she pushes them before her like advertisements: I am female.

Middle-aged buslady likes me, smiles, says hello in halting English. Less and less shy each time I come in.

It's a tourist crowd: in town to gawp the Mission. Dropped from busses in Bermuda shorts and flip flops and sunscreen. Eating what the Mexicans eat for lunch.