Mark's Pages

Much my most expensive accommodation during this trip to the South Pacific.

On arrival in Papeete, it seemed it would be impossible to visit Raiatea at all. Not many rooms, and all were full. With persistent calling over ten days I was able to find a room here at the Hawaiki Nui Pearl Resort. It was their least expensive room, off the garden, but more than double what I spent anywhere else. To my surprise and, I have to admit, delight, on arrival they upgraded me to the top of the line overwater honeymoon bungalow, usually about $800/night. I hadn't anticipated this, and it was a sweet surprise.

Nevertheless I admit to ambivalence. These overwater bungalows are environmentally destructive, with pylons pounded right into living coral. This one has the excuse of having been built over tide pools, not reef. Still, uncool. Yet I chose not to turn it down. Partly from embarrassment: they were so nice to give me the upgrade. But also because the injury I'd sustained two weeks earlier was flaring up, and I was feeling less than perfectly mobile. If ever there's a good spot for sitting, this is it.

Spent much of my first two days on Raiatea dozing on the deck.