December 8, 2004:
Tourist snobbery. Our willingness to explore off the paved roads, to hike without maps, to follow the sound of running water. Nevermind the mosquitos. We're covered in scratches and bug bites to the extent that people ask if there's something medically wrong with us. Yeah there is: we're somewhat braver than some.
What holds people back? Are we special somehow? Are we really doing something so unique, or are the others just lazy and lame?
As we reached a spectacular heiau after a moderately difficult search we found ourselves so full of self-congratulation that we actually spoke aloud about how cool we were.
In retrospect and even at the time this all seems very puzzling. It really wasn't that hard. We're really not that great. Where was everybody?